Jups

I took this photo years ago.

I stood there, watched it line up… and didn’t paddle out.

I went and checked another spot and surfed there instead.

Since that day, I haven’t seen this wave break like this again. Not once.

Funny how the ocean gives you a moment, just one, and then takes it back. Kinda like life. Don’t wait.

Still hoping one day it fires again and next time I won’t hesitate 🌊