Alison Rowland Equestrian

Most riders believe their horse is straight because they can ride down the rail without drifting. But straightness is not about staying between two fences. It’s about alignment through the body, from poll to hind foot. That alignment directly affects performance, confidence, and long-term soundness.

Carleton Brooks returns again and again to fundamentals. In discussing conformation, he reminds readers plainly: “Form is function, so a horse is going to hold up better if their body is more correct.” If the body is not aligned correctly, whether due to build or training, the function suffers. “The way their legs line up underneath their body is very important.”

Straightness means the hind feet follow the line of the front feet. The shoulders and hips stay aligned with the direction of travel. The horse pushes evenly into both reins. There is no drifting shoulder, no escaping haunch, no neck bent one way while the ribcage falls the other.

Almost every horse is naturally crooked. That’s normal. What matters is whether we address it or allow it to become habitual compensation. When crookedness becomes a pattern, one hind leg works harder. One shoulder carries more weight. Over time, uneven loading affects muscle development, jump technique, and durability.

Brooks illustrates structural imbalance with a simple analogy: “If your table has one leg that’s not straight, it is not going to be sturdy.” The same principle applies under saddle. A body that is not aligned cannot remain sturdy under athletic demand.

📎 Continue reading this article at https://www.theplaidhorse.com/2026/03/10/straightness-is-not-just-a-line-why-crooked-horses-cant-jump-their-best/
📸 © Heather N. Photography

Straightness Is Not Just a Line: Why Crooked Horses Can’t Jump Their Best - The Plaid Horse Magazine Brought to you by With Purpose: The Balmoral Standard Most riders believe their horse is straight because they can ride down the rail without drifting. But straightness is not about staying between two fences. It’s about alignment through the body, from poll to hind foot. That alignment directly a...

WALKING THE COURSE

Once you have established your line to the first fence, continue by planning the rest of the course. Think about the lines and the turns to the next fence — will you go inside or outside a jump to get there? Walk each line to decide how you will ride it. This is where knowing the length of your horse’s stride becomes essential: what rides normal for one horse can feel very different on another.

When you walk a line, count two steps for the landing, then four steps per stride. As you approach the next fence the distance will usually feel normal, sometimes a little shorter, or a couple of strides bigger. From that, decide whether to ride a little forward, stay the same, or wait a little.

When you walk between lines, don’t stare at the next fence. Focusing on the fence often makes you unconsciously change stride length — either taking bigger steps if the fence looks far away or shortening them to “fit.” It does make a difference. Small fences don’t usually change much, but as heights increase they influence how the line rides.

Remember how different fence types ride: oxer-to-oxer generally rides a bit long because horses land shorter from the back rail — the arc sits in the middle and you tend to get deeper to an oxer than a vertical Vertical-to-vertical often rides a touch shorter because horses land a little further out. As George Sanna says, “There is no such thing as a short double of oxers or a long double of verticals.”

Also plan where you will regroup and get your horse back into a good balance. Walking the course is an art: many factors affect how it will ride. Fence colours matter — some horses read certain colours poorly. Water trays, gates, or unusual fill can take a horse’s attention off the top rail. If a fence worries your horse, try to get in the ring early so you can show it to them from the direction you’ll jump it; get their eye on it and give a good reassuring pat — I find that pat really helps.

After you’ve walked, go back through the course thoroughly — not just 1, 2, 3, 4. Visualise your line and the canter to the first: how you will ride each line, where you will balance, and ride the turns. From start to finish, have a plan. If a line still feels uncertain, don’t be afraid to ask — there’s always someone willing to help. Go over and over your course until it is clear. Having a clear plan also helps reduce nerves and keeps your focus where it needs to be.

Ride with purpose, keep your horse balanced, and enjoy the process. Happy jumping — have fun!

Walking the Course – The First Fence

The first fence is something we really need to think about and be sure we know exactly how we’re going to ride it.

Start by knowing the line you want to take. Plan where you’ll pick up your canter, and give yourself plenty of time to establish it. You want a canter with enough power and activity so that, if you need to wait slightly to the first fence, you still have enough engine underneath you to jump well.
Once you’ve jumped the first fence, the momentum helps carry you through the rest of the course.

I see it so often—riders turning to the first fence still trying to organise the balance, rhythm, and control. Do your work early. Get the balance, set the rhythm, and then let that rhythm carry you to the fence.

I once rode a stallion who would often have the first fence down. So every time I went into the ring, I made sure to show him the first fence. If I did that, he would jump it every time. Get your horse’s eyes on the fence early.

If the first fence is away from the out gate, especially on a slight angle, make sure you show it to them. Plan your line, get straight early, and use a little outside leg to keep the horse focused.
If the first fence is towards the out gate, still show it—horses tend to look through the fence toward the exit.

If the first fence is part of a related line to fence two, walk the line and decide whether it is:
• a holding, “in your hand” distance
• a forward, moving distance
• or a slightly quieter, waiting distance

From this, plan the canter you’ll need before you arrive at the first fence. Establish the canter that matches the line—don’t try to adjust halfway down it.
And remember: the first line will always ride longer than the rest of the course. Once you’ve jumped it, the momentum helps the others ride more normally.

If the first fence is on a curving line, be very definite about where you’re landing.
If it curves left, it will naturally push you to the right—so land left to stay on the line and avoid lengthening the distance.
Same applies to a line curving right.

The first fence sets the tone for your entire round.
Ride it with purpose. Have a plan, establish your canter early, show your horse the question, and commit to your line. When you take control of the first fence, the rest of the course becomes smoother, more forward, and far more rideable.
Start with clarity and intention—and the whole round will follow.