AnnKM
AnnKm by Ann Kaplan Mulholland
We dissect the culture and impact of fashion with a focus on social responsibility.
04/17/2025
Say goodbye to forever chemicals in your wardrobe—at least if France has anything to say about it. In a groundbreaking move, the country has announced a ban on per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in textiles, a decision that is about to shake up the global fashion industry.
These invisible chemicals—often used to make jackets waterproof, gym leggings sweat-resistant, and even baby clothes stain-repellent—are about to be banned from textiles. The ban on toxic PFAS is a defining moment in the fashion industry as concerns over health and environmental safety increase.
PFAS, often called "forever chemicals," are a large group of synthetic chemicals that don’t break easily and persist in the environment. Manufacturers have been using PFAS in clothing, shoes, and accessories since the 1940s due to their water and stain-resistant properties. It may sound like they are quite useful and doing all the dirty work of resisting oil, grease, water, and heat in clothes, but they do not go away easily or break down and hence damage the environment.
Your perfectly matching athleisure set, sports bra, athletic wear or that adorable raincoat in your kids' closet could be hiding a dark secret—they could be exposed to toxic PFAS. PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) have carbon-fluoride bonds that do not break down naturally and can stick in water, soil, etc. Yes, the stain-proof shirts, bedsheets, and tablecloths are nice, but they come with a price tag that’s too costly for our planet.
France is officially saying “no” to non-essential uses of PFAS in clothing and other consumer goods, with a phased ban starting in 2026. The full rollout is expected by 2030, giving brands some time to clean up their act, quite literally.
Read more here:
https://www.annkm.com/publications/uuk8szdbkdokc6krkikiqb6ypekxcu
📸: Aron Fjell
✏️: Prachi Khatri
03/06/2025
People choose vegan fashion for many of the same reasons they adopt a vegan diet—ethical concerns, environmental impact, and a commitment to conscious consumerism. Vegan fashion is about more than just avoiding animal products—it’s a shift toward a more ethical, sustainable, and innovative fashion industry.
Vegan footwear in particular refers to shoes made without any animal-derived materials, such as leather, suede, wool, silk, or glues that contain animal byproducts. Instead, these shoes are crafted from synthetic or plant-based alternatives, including recycled plastics, bio-based leather made from mushrooms, apple or pineapple fibers, organic cotton, and natural rubber.
The global vegan footwear market is estimated to be valued at $34.45B USD in 2025 and is expected to reach $58.31B by 2032. Current growth trends are being driven by rising ethical concerns and health awareness among consumers as more people choose to avoid animal products in their clothing.
Vegan shoes are made without leather, wool, suede, or silk, and are instead made from materials like corn, bamboo, or recycled plastics. However, It takes a lot of research and development for innovative designs to incorporate such an approach to be fashionable.
Read more here: https://www.annkm.com/publications/how-holster-fashion-is-inspiring-people-to-take-positive-steps-for-the-planet
📸: Holster Fashion
✏️: Zibah Olabode
02/25/2025
The fashion industry is one of the largest polluters in the world, contributing significantly to issues like water waste, carbon emissions and textile waste. As awareness of these environmental impacts grows, consumers, activists and regulators are pushing fashion giants to adopt more sustainable practices.
In recent years, Shein, a leading global fast fashion brand, has come under increased scrutiny for its environmental impact, especially concerning water and energy consumption during its manufacturing processes. This has led the global e-commerce powerhouse to take meaningful steps towards sustainability, particularly in denim production to reduce energy and water usage.
The denim industry is known to be notorious for its high water usage and energy consumption. According to the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), making one pair of jeans requires 3,781 litres of water. Every denim produced leads to approx. 34 kilograms of carbon dioxide emissions, equivalent to emissions from a car driven 111 km. With data this shocking, eco-conscious fashion is the least we can do to save our environment.
Shein has taken the wake-up call seriously to save water and energy usage. One big impact has been from adapting to Cool Transfer digital print technology, which uses a printing method that applies colour directly onto the fabric in a more controlled, efficient manner. Cool Transfer digital printing uses a dry process, meaning no water is required for dyeing or rinsing. Denim production is typically not only water-consuming but also one of the most resource-intensive fabrics to produce. The amount of harmful chemicals released in the process of dyeing and finishing a fabric contributes to 10% of global carbon emissions.
The process used by Shein now eliminates the conventional steps of washing and bleaching the fabric, in turn saving water and energy. The new cutting-edge technology of Cool Transfer digital print helps slash up to 90% of water usage and 70% of energy usage. This cool technology not only helps reduce exposure to harmful chemicals but also allows the production of a wide range of colours and styles.
Read more here: https://www.annkm.com/publications/fast-fashion-slow-impact-sheins-push-to-reduce-water-and-energy-in-denim-manufacturing
📸: Shein website / UNEP website
✏️:
02/20/2025
In an industry primarily focused on style and aesthetics, comfort often contradicts what sells and what is desired. Amazingly, one in four people globally suffer from some sort of skin condition and that is something fashion brands ought to consider. This alarming fact suggests that there is a need for more fashion to consider comfort and sensitivity.
Juliemay has become a go-to brand for lingerie and swimwear that caters specifically to individuals who struggle to find options that won’t irritate their skin. The founder, Tiffany Chiu’s journey, began in 2018 after her mother began to experience heightened skin sensitivities. When they couldn’t find underwear to suit her skin condition she realized there was a gap in the market for allergy-friendly lingerie.
This led her to create the UK’S first allergy friendly lingerie brand. Their designs are dermatologist-certified, organic underwear that eases discomfort from conditions like eczema, contact dermatitis and sensitivities that often affect women after menopause or surgeries.
Their lingerie collection consists of safe, hypoallergenic options are free from latex, harsh chemicals and synthetic materials.
According to Chiu, “Our mission extends beyond garments—it’s about empowering women with safe, comfortable solutions for skin sensitivities”. She further opines that what sets Juliemay apart from other lingerie brands is the commitment to using only the highest quality materials that are kind to the skin of their wearers.
Read more at the link in bio or DM us for the link 🥰
📸: Julienay Website
✏️: Zibah Olabode
02/18/2025
The handbag business is a mother-son endeavour for Elizabeth Hardy and Benjamin Gordon, who respectively run Canadian-born handbag brands Espe and Benjamin Gordon. For both of them, handbags have been a staple in their everyday lives, so it seemed only natural that designing them would be a career path, an extension of who they are.
Gordon, in particular, has found success with his eponymous brand - which is also vegan and cruelty-free - by appealing to a younger generation of men, one that has no problem carrying handbags. “Ben is close to this younger market, so he knew the bags would resonate,” Hardy says. “The surprise is how much they have resonated, and not just with his demographic, but older men and ladies who are looking for something less feminine but still cool and on-trend.” As it stands, she says, they’re having trouble keeping up with the demand, and many styles are often sold out.
Gordon saw a market to tap into - a youthful generation with more open minds about the concept of masculinity, with an eye for trends, and with a desire for functional lifestyle pieces, and took off. “Ben has been carrying a side bag since his teens, and now, at the ripe age of 23, carrying a bag is just part of everyday life,” Hardy says. “The younger generation of men see bags as accessories that look great and are handy to carry essentials. The bulging front pockets that held wallets and phones are no longer.”
For proof, look no further than athletes. Super Bowl-winning quarterback Jalen Hurts, Taylor Swifts NFL boyfriend Travis Kelce, stylish NHL superstar David Pastrnak, and soccer legend and style superstar David Beckham have been leading the charge, sporting bags from up-and-coming brands and storied labels alike. As a result, Hardy says, older men are coming around to the idea, too, especially those who traverse the globe.
“Bags are becoming necessary to keep valuables safe while travelling,” she says. As a result, they’re becoming more commonplace in all aspects of life. “Ben takes inspiration from designers like Louis Vuitton and Gucci - but he also looks to streetwear culture and specifically the UK rap scene where artists like Potter Payper are creating their unique stylings - and where side bags are playing a big part in this culture.”
Read more here: https://www.annkm.com/publications/this-mother-son-duo-is-breaking-gender-barriers-with-handbags
📸: Courtesy of Espe Bags
✏️: .commisso
02/13/2025
Every Spring Summer New York Fashion Week season takes place in February amid Black History Month. This year, with President Trump rolling back Diversity, Equity and Inclusion as well as ending identity-themed holidays, Black History Month feels like a mix of celebration, reflection and frustration. Despite the political climate, many designers have used NYFW as an opportunity to highlight the importance of representation, cultural diversity, and social justice.
Christopher John Rogers celebrated his Blackness through a rainbow of colours at his show which he defined as a “celebration of our roots” on his Instagram. He highlighted that this collection comes at a time when identities are being challenged and that the pursuit of happiness feels complex. His collection embodies the spirit of defiance, but Rogers also has highlighted the use of American fabrics like cotton to really show African-American identity as part of the tapestry. Garments had eccentric shapes, patterns, and use of corsetry and were all extremely unique.
Sergio Hudson’s show exuded Black excellence. The primarily diverse cast of models donned elegant dresses, suits, tweed sets, sequins and furs. The collection entitled, “The Good Life” showed exactly what diverse communities look like while dressing luxe.
Style expert Jenee Naylor attended both Christopher John Rogers’ show and Sergio Hudson. She expressed that “as a Black woman, championing Black art, expression and fashion is important. I absolutely feel as if shows, such as Christopher John Rogers and Sergio Hudson, serve as a means of black celebration. It's no secret that the fashion industry can be quite exclusive and discriminatory. That's why the highlight of my NYFW experience tends to be attending these shows. They continuously embody a unique creative lens, while also showcasing quality craftsmanship and empowering black culture.” She adds that the overlap of New York Fashion Week and Black History Month is a small win despite the burden of dealing with prejudices from the fashion industry.
Read more here: https://www.annkm.com/publications/14p9pidp5i0b3mwx2ephq72cfda1nl
📸: Brianna Rohlehr
✏️:
Click here to claim your Sponsored Listing.