RowanTree Workshop - making medieval

Zöpfe - construction cont...

I've finished a few more of the stuffed ribbons - they are taking longer to sew than I expected!

For use, they are sewn together in sets of 3 at the tapered ends, then plaited in with the hair.
To test this I sewed my first set together and plaited them into the hair on a wig - not very carefully and the wig needs combing out, but it shows the general idea.

Here I braided a few turns before adding the Zöpfe, but I think they need to be used right from the first turn, to match the images in the portraits.

Now I need to finish the other set, and then I can start on the Barett!

Zöpfe - construction

With the size sorted, I machine-sewed the pointed ends and trimmed them, then turned them. I pressed and based a narrow hem on one side and machine basted (longest stitch) a guidline on the other side, to make sure my overlap seam was consistent. (I could have drawn this on with chalk but there is going to be a lot of handling...)

I used tweezers to stuff the tapered end of the wool inside the silk, then wrapped the silk around the wool and basted the overlap seam, compressing the wool slightly.

Then I slip-stitched the seam closed, and removed the basting. I've left the other end unfinished for now - I'll check the length once I can plait them together.

One down 5 to go...

Zöpfe - mockups

I'm starting with the Zöpfe (false braids), which were originally made by a professional Zöpfmacher (braid-maker) and offered for sale at market stalls.

The Nürnberg Haubuch lists the Zöpfmacher amongst the working brothers in the 17th century (the style persisted for a long time). You can see the brightly coloured braids, joined together in sets of three, ready to be braided into the real plaits.

I'm making a test run using scrap fabric and some wool rovings. General shape and approach works well, but they are much too thick! The ones in the paintings with people wearing them are about half this size, so another round of testing needed...

The wool is also too springy, so for the final version I'll use some softer wool rovings.

Project completed: Embroidered Haube

This embroidered headwear, with its Flinderlien (spangles) and extra layers, would have been worn by a very well off German Burgher woman in the early 16th century.

The embroidery on the Haube is worked in silk on linen in Zopfstitch (long-armed cross stitch) a common German technique in the early 16th century. It took me 120 hours over several years! The gold-plated Flinderlein (spangles) add another layer of luxury.

Although the embroidered Haube can be worn alone, it is commonly seen with an additional layer - a fine Schleier (veil) over the top, or another layer on the back of the headdress, as seen in the Beham portrait. I've made a version of this wrap, and a fine silk veil to give a variety of looks.

It's been a frustrating project, with several setbacks, but I'm really pleased with the end result!

Research, step-by-step construction and a lot more images at:
https://rowantreeworkshop.com.au/embroidered-1520s-haube-coif/2026/

Testing pattern shapes - mini slat-sided bags!

I've finished the archery bag, but can't complete my Haube project - still waiting on the trim to arrive. And although I do have another hat project waiting in the wings (3 actually), I don't want to start something new until I've finished the Haube.

So... I've been looking at the other forms of slat-sided bags and how other people have made them. I don't agree with many of these realisations - I think the answer is simpler.

Rather than test my theories by making each one full scale, I've spent a few happy hours playing with fabric scraps, crochet cotton and paddle-pop sticks to make mini versions of the various styles!

The slats aren't in proportion, but I think I'm on the right track :) Next step is make full scale versions so I can share the patterns and methods. Probably as a fill-in project for the next while, in between hats...

And if anyone knows a better name for this specific group of bags, I'm keen to hear it! Goubitz just classes them as 'bags' and the museum examples refer to the materials - linen bag etc.