JRD Pool & Spa

It’s officially pool opening / hot tub refresh season, and things are getting a little wild over here ☀️💦

We’re currently working through a high volume of pool openings and hot tub refreshes, along with an influx of inquiries for leak inspections and general repairs. In short: it’s all hands on deck, calendars are packed, and our crew is moving at full speed to keep everyone up and running — our scheduling board is starting to look like a game of Tetris.

We’re doing our best to respond to emails, texts, and phone calls as quickly as possible. If you’re waiting to hear from us, we haven’t forgotten about you — we truly appreciate your patience while we work through the rush.

Thank you for keeping us busy and trusting us with your pools and hot tubs 💧

Jon & Nina

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I really enjoy teaching our clients the proper way to test and balance their hot tub water! 💧
And I love seeing the **aha moment** when they realize it’s actually not as difficult as it was made out to be.
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!!The following tips and tricks are for regular hot tubs. Tubs, using salt & copper-sulfate systems, etc.... can be a bit different. If you are interested in a post, addressing these specific systems, let me know!!
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**Water Chemistry Balancing!**

The 5 base chemicals you should have to properly balance your hot tub water are:

1️⃣ Sanitizer (either chlorine or bromine)
2️⃣ Alkalinity Increaser
3️⃣ pH Up
4️⃣ pH Down
5️⃣ Shock (non-chlorinated oxidizer)

There are many additional products out there, but that’s a subject for another post 😉

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After testing your water (sanitizer, pH, and total alkalinity), utilizing test strips or a reagent kit, always balance your water chemistry in the following order:

1️⃣ Total Alkalinity
Ideal range: 80–120 ppm

2️⃣ pH
Ideal range: 7.2 – 7.6 (if you use chlorine as your sanitizer)
7.2 - 7.8 (if you use bromine as your sanitizer)
3️⃣ Sanitizer
Ideal range: 3–5 ppm

Lastly, add your weekly shock treatment.
Shock oxidizes contaminants and eliminates *combined chlorine* (used chlorine that has bound itself to contaminants).

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Helpful tips for success:

✔️ Run your jets when adding chemicals — this allows for better distribution and proper dissolving of powdered products.
✔️ Add chemicals in small amounts (tsp/tbsp) and re-test until you’re within the ideal ranges. After doing it a few times, you’ll naturally get a feel for how much of what to add.
✔️ When adding your shock treatment, restart your jet cycle and leave the cover open until the cycle is finished. This allows the off-gas to escape instead of being trapped under the cover.

!Professional-grade chemicals are very potent - so ensure safe handling practices! — a little goes a long way.
We never want to see clients dumping capfuls of (especially) chlorine into their tubs. It’s very easy to over-chlorinate hot tub water, but extremely difficult to lower high chlorine levels once they’re too high.

Over-chlorination *does* have its place in cases of contamination (f***l incidents, bacteria, etc.), but this should always be handled by a professional.

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Puck Floaters — one of my biggest pet peeves! 😅

If you use a puck floater in a hot tub:
➡️ 1–2 pucks maximum, depending on how heavily the tub is used
❌ Never fill your floater to the brim

Overloading a floater can:
• Over-chlorinate your water
• Damage your cover
• Damage internal components
• Lead to costly repairs

(And yes… that’s a topic for yet another post.)

I hope that helps to clear some of the mysteries of balancing water chemistry. If you have any questions, shoot us a DM and we will be happy to help.

Happy Hot Tubbing!

- Nina -

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That's one way to remove CYA and TDS.....

Distracted driver crashed into my Facebook friends backyard. Posted in r/IdiotsInCars by u/Jaydon1 • 78,696 points and 6,021 comments

When the customer wants belly rubs they get belly rubs. Part time pool guy, part time belly rubber, full time worker lol.