dB Customs

Looks like our top 3 is in, the GPZ 1st, the Freddie Spencer CB Superbike tribute 2nd, and the OG Killer Carbon Katana is 3rd!

Have done plenty of these mods, and it’s detailed in the instructions when you get the AHM style adjustable rear tensioner, but pics help, so you need to modify the upper B-chain guide with a bit of an S bend to it, but in a way that it clears tensioner and also has a small clearance between the chain and slider. Also make sure that you ensure the cross oil tube is installed with the larger hole facing down against the cam cap. It’s detailed in the OEM manual but many people miss this. I’m guide to replace all of the cam hold down bolts with 12.9 grade, just temporarily installed the OEM bolts to degree in the cams.

Always do a dry run fit-up using the Vince & Hyde Racing front guide as well as inspect your B chain tensioner to ensure full range of motion with no binding. Most CB heads have some casting flashing that prevents head from going past the guide, some are really bad, this one wasn’t too bad. But it is normal. What I did find this time around was that there was some casting flash that needed to be removed so the B tensioner could fully retract into the hole (it was hitting the steel clevis). See red arrows on first picture (this is after removal of flash). I also put Permatex red sealant on the face of the copper head washers, facing down towards the head, and then add a bit of moly l**e on the face of the fl**ge of the acorn head nuts so they are not dry when torquing against the copper washer. Also add a dab of moly onto the valve stems where they are depressed by the buckets. Also, make sure you keep the A cam chain tight when installing the head (don’t let it drop down to be retrieved later), as with the curved aftermarket guide, the chain can get hung up on the crank sprocket (which you’ll find out later when you go to install the exhaust cam)