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SS26 POIESIS PT. II

For SS26, Xaris Project draws inspiration from brutalist architecture and the work of Tadao Ando, especially his ideas around space and light. Concrete - often seen as cold and heavy - becomes a symbol in the collection, balanced by fluid shapes, curves, and asymmetry in the garments.

Even though it’s a spring collection, the materials are purposefully weighty, echoing the lasting presence of architecture. From raw steer leather to stiff washi paper and milk-protein cotton, nothing feels fleeting. “We’re exploring the contrast between structure and lightness,” says designer K. Even the more relaxed fabrics, like h**p and Okayama denim, are cut with sharp precision - leaning into clean, geometric lines.

Named after the Greek idea of chiasm – where opposites intersect – the label continues to craft hybrid silhouettes that feel both architectural and human.

Read the full article about Xaris Project SS26 now on LUCENTEMENT.com.

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BREAKING NEWS - stops it’s operation per July.

The brand just announced:
“We are writing to inform you of a difficult but necessary decision: We have decided to close the Boris Bidjan Saberi production company and its whole operation structure at the end of July 2025.

This decision was the result of deep reflection due to increasing manufacturing difficulties, which make it unviable to continue production under the current conditions and configuration.

The reality is clear: under current conditions and without relocating production, it is impossible for us to maintain operations with the standards of quality, integrity, and consistency that have always been the foundation of our project. We deeply appreciate the support and trust you have shown us over the years. Boris Bidjan Saberi has not left. This closure is not the end of the road, but a transformation. Boris’s vision, aesthetic, and spirit will continue, in other forms, in other formats, and under new structures that allow for greater exploration without compromising the essence of the brand.”

Another pioneer closing down, what are your thoughts?

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For Fall-Winter 2025, delivered a collection that was unexpected.

This season, Yohji embraced practicality in a way rarely seen from him, presenting puffer jackets and coats that stood in contrast to his usual draping and deconstructed tailoring.

His idea for this collection was to redefine the perception of down-filled outerwear, making it sophisticated enough to complement a suit yet functional enough to endure the cold. With this, Yohji sought refinement, opting for more streamlined silhouettes.

The materials told a different story. Synthetic fabrics dominated, marking a noticeable departure from his usual textural richness. For longtime followers of Yohji Yamamoto, this collection may have felt unfamiliar, even
disorienting.

But it’s cool to see his effort in changing our perspective on puffers.

What are your thoughts?

Photography exclusively for LUCENTEMENT by Floris Koopman.

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Would you wear these?

Rick Owens returns with a new version of the Megalace Pentagram sneaker. This time in collaboration with Moncler, it’s called the Trail Grip sneaker.

The Trail Grip sneakers have a vibram megagrip sole to give them, you guessed it, more grip. It’s an old shape in a new sole.

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Come with us backstage at Fall-Winter 2025

Taakk continues to integrate hybrid constructions that merge styles and materials, something we really like from them. This season, panther and tiger prints are seamlessly embedded into fabrics, redefining their perception in a more sophisticated context.

Standout pieces include a tracksuit jacket (image 2) that blends blazer elements with a silk-like velvet texture, as well as a printed shirt (image 11) that transitions into a leather-like material, creating a seamless yet structured silhouette.

Another highlight is a bomber jacket (image 7) that gradually shifts into an oversized blazer, balancing formalwear with a relaxed, street-influenced aesthetic.

The backstage images, exclusively captured for us by photographer Zlata Lisova , bring these intricate details into sharper focus. The textures, material transitions, and precise constructions become even more apparent in these shots, offering a closer look at Taakk’s craftsmanship.

What do you think?

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is the new creative director of Maison Margiela.

This didn’t come as a surprise to us, if anyone would be suiting for it, it would be Glenn. Very curious what he will pull off for the first collection.

What do you think?

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