Texas Fashion Collection

In the late 1960s, fashion designers tapped into a nostalgia for the past. Designers like Mary Quant created Victorian-turned-psychedelic designs with “Granny Takes a Trip” and Laura Ashley created interpretations of nineteenth-century patterns - creative impulses that likely informed this home furnishing-weight pile fabric being used for this designer-unknown coat.

Image 1: Detail of the neckline of a coat with a wide collar and textile of green, orange, red, and blue pomegranate and leaf motifs

Image 2: Long coat made of tufted fabric with green, yellow, red, and blue stylized vegetal motifs, shown on a brown mannequin and white background

For this 1997 skirt, Todd Oldham transformed textiles from simple to sensational! Printed cotton fabric from the 1940s served as the foundation, the floral print still visible from the inside of the garment. Oldham worked with Mystic Beading to embellish the other side of the fabric, creating a related floral pattern entirely in hand-stitched beads and sequins!

Image 1: Burgundy fabric framing a white label with the name Todd Oldham and a crown logo, with other fabric showing stitches and a pale floral pattern and densely beaded black, pink, and green floral motifs on the other

Image 2: A white mannequin featuring skirt with all-over sequins creating a pink, green, purple, and black large-scale floral motif

This ensemble features coordinated patterned textiles, likely created through resist dying and block printing techniques. Both textile treatments have long histories in India, where these cotton fabrics were created and transformed into a dress and jacket by House of Arts.

Image 1: Halter bodice of a dress made with green fabric with a geometric brown floral print, plunging neckline, patterned band from the empire to natural waist, shown on a white mannequin

Image 2: Detail of a dress waistline with bright green lining framing a design house label, with a bold patterned waistband and green and brown printed skirt fabric

Image 3: Detail of the jacket and bodice of a green and brown floral print ensemble