COsewn

I love being able to efficiently validate grading across a size set using avatars in the 3D Review workspace.

For this project, a client came to me with an old graded PDF pattern and a request to shorten the sleeves about 2”. Once I converted and combined all the individual files for each size into a nested pattern in my 2D CAD program (a much more tedious process than opening a graded industry standard DXF file), I was finally able to review the existing grade from S-4X. In doing so, I discovered that the sleeves and body were growing significantly in length between each size – much more than they should. To get a better sense of the sleeve length in each size, I decided to dress the pattern in 3D. Sure enough, the proportions were way off as the sizes got further from the Large base size, and the 2X-4X in particular were excessively long. (Pictured: S,M,L,2X,4X on Alvanon’s North American Standard Men’s 36-52)

It's a common misconception that as the circumference of garments increase, the length should follow in similar proportion - especially on larger sizes. However, in some cases the larger sizes actually need to get shorter in some areas, as was the case with this raglan sleeve. The upper portion of a raglan sleeve gets taller as the chest girth increases since the raglan shoulder seams get longer. On this style, the sleeve length below the armpit had to get shorter on the 3X and 4X to maintain similar proportions to the L length from neck to wrist. All said and done, I ended up shortening the L sleeve 2” and taking 7.5” off the length of the 4X sleeve!! I also reduced the torso length grade so the 4X wouldn’t end up looking like a tunic. Overall, the fit is much improved across the graded set.

Being able to make these updates in 3D saved a significant amount of time and materials as it eliminated the need for running a size set of physical samples; the client was able to quickly see and approve the revisions and I was able to turn this project around within a day. Fitting and grading in 3D is a game changer!

Introducing our house line of fleece hats: a slouchy beanie and a fitted cap are now in stock and ready to ship. Made from recycled and Made in USA Hardface and available in blue and grey.