Vertical Minded

Half rope information

Many people wonder weather to go with a single rope or two half ropes. However, there seems to be a lot of misinformation out there, so let's talk through it:

First, terminology. If you want to be technically correct, the ropes themselves should be referred to as 'half ropes' and the technique as 'double rope technique'. For those that don't already know, half ropes are designed to be used together but also strong enough to take a fall on their own. Often climbers will only clip one half rope to a piece of protection. This is generally acceptable. Twin ropes must ALWAYS both be clipped into every piece of pro.

Second, misconceptions. Here is a great article from Will Gadd in which he talks about the confusion around half rope fall forces: http://willgadd.com/?p=274

Basically, he is pointing out that the UIAA standard for half ropes is to test their fall factor with a 55kg instead of the 80kg mass used for single ropes. This discrepancy makes half ropes APPEAR to have a lower fall factor. They generally don't.

Third, function. Ultimately, whether or not to use half ropes comes down to the type of terrain that you are climbing. Wandering alpine routes are the most obvious choice for half ropes. Routes that require multiple rappels can also become much less sketchy when you can reduce the total number of required rappels in half. And sports like ice climbing where their is a risk of cutting or puncturing a rope can motivate some climbers to double up their lifelines. But with these advantages come some disadvantages:
1) Weight - two half ropes weigh more than one single rope
2) Rope management - no matter how good you are, half ropes require more effort and focus to keep them tangle free
3) Rappelling - those two hundred foot rappels are wonderful but can increase the chances of so much rope getting tangled when it comes time to pull the rope.

At the end of the day, if your route isn't too circuitous, one 60 or 70m rope will be the faster and lighter option for alpinists looking to speed up the ascent. But if you want to reduce your rappels and boost your safety margin, half ropes might fit the bill.

Single and Half-Rope Impact Forces: Data! « Will Gadd

For the backcountry skiers out there:

REVIEW: Dynafit's TLT-5 TF-X

(Note: The Dynafit TLT-5 TF-X model from the first year 2010/2011 had a cuff problem. If your cuff is splitting across the instep you can probably send them in for a new pair to Dynafit USA no questions asked: 1711 15th Street, 2nd Floor Boulder, Colorado 80302-6352)

If you haven't heard of Dynafit's TLT-5 boots you haven't been paying attention. OR you have simply been assuming that there are a bunch of people skiing gnarly lines in tennis shoes over the past two seasons. That's how flexible, lightweight, and game-changing these boots are. These boots fundamentally break the mold. (Keep in mind that the TLT-5 TF-X is the 'consumer' version from Dynafit. They also make the carbon fiber TLT-5 Performance TF and DY.N.A Evo which are even lighter)

First, they are mind blowingly light weight. At only 1350g per boot (compare with Scarpa's 1530g Maestrale) they cut valuable grams off of each step.

Second, and most importantly in my opinion, they have incredible cuff rotation. The upper boot bends about as far back as my tendons so there is no abbreviated gait that is characteristic of most AT boots. No longer do you need to wobble and balance from rock to rock as if you are learning to walk again. You can bound and flex to your heart's contentment.

Third, they have a rockered sole and bomber crampon compatibility that makes them climb like a mountaineering boot. I have climbed M6 in them and was more limited by the scary exposure than I was by the boots.

As with all things there is a downside:

Wear: These uber lightweight boots do wear particularly heavily. If you use them simply for AT skiing, they will last a long time. But if you want to take them ice and mixed climbing and on extended alpine routes, expect them to wear out within a couple of seasons. The lower buckles on my pair bent markedly after only a few uses and then wouldn't stay closed while walking in snow after that. I fixed that problem by drilling a hole in the end of the buckle and looping a tele leash through the hole, passing under the arch of the boot, and clipping it into the buckle on the medial side. Annoying, but a workable solution.

Warmth: The TLT-5 TF-X come with a mediocre liner, that, frankly, is not suited for extreme cold. If you want to take your TF-X to Alaska or extended winter trips upgrade to a Intuition liner or equivalent. The Performance comes with this improved liner. I took my TF-Xs to Alaska with an overboot but without upgrading the liner and nearly lost toes.

For more information about these boots from some elite alpinists check out:
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/06/part-2.html

Cold Thistle: The Dynafit TLT 5 as a winter climbing boot? Part 2

Here is Ed's helmet cam video from his accident in November:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ovr55k6evE&context=C4c99f9fADvjVQa1PpcFMhUrBpw_ULC0KXTTUS14o7xDeGZafBIw4=

Mixed Climbing Avalanche Accident.m4v WARNING: PROFANITY AND GRAPHIC IMAGES This accident occurred on Nov 6th 2011 in South East Wyoming on a first ascent of a previously unclimbed route (it's be...

http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/

Moral of the story: Don't use dyneema slings to attach yourself to the anchor, and definitely don't tie a knot in it. Even if you only fall two feet, that's enough to snap the sling.

DMM Wales - Climbing Equipment DMM - Manufacturing premium quality climbing equipment in Wales since 1981