NWA Plants Inc

Photo of dried flowers on Hydrangea paniculata plants in south Alabama. Popular varieties of these type hydrangeas include LIMELIGHT and LITTLE LIME. Many questions on pruning these in addition to pruning Hydrangea macrophylla that we posted earlier.

Hydrangea paniculata bloom on growth produced in the spring. Flowering occurs June into the early fall. Since these bloom on current years growth, height reduction pruning can be done during the fall and can also be done late winter, early spring. Winter months too - no problem. Pruning the right way can encourage a tighter growing habit and more lateral branching with will result in an increased number of flowers produced. Prune off old flowers during the blooming season to encourage a longer blooming time. Prune off old flowers in the winter months into early spring if desired. They will naturally fall off with new growth.

Hydrangea paniculata are much later to leaf out then Hydrangea macrophylla - usually by 6 weeks. Fertilize a couple weeks in the spring prior to the time the normally leaf out in your area. Where we are in south LA that would be mid to late March. These also require chilling hour accumulation. They leaf out faster and grow more vigorously after cold winters.

"Open Center Pruning" Tree Shape (think upside down umbrella) - recommended for PEACHES, NECTARINES and PLUMS. It is important to properly shape fruit trees in the first year or two after planting. Pruning should be done in mid winter. Note how trees should look after pruning the first three years.

Soil is the foundation of a healthy garden! 🌿

Many people overlook their soil, take their soil for granted, or randomly add nutrients to the soil in hopes that it will help their plants grow well, but at Extension, we like to say, "Don't guess... Soil test!"

It's so important to check the pH and levels of nutrients before gardening! A soil test can make the difference between success and failure in the garden.

Did you know we offer FREE soil testing for Arkansans? Just take a soil sample from your yard and bring it into your county extension office!

Learn how to take a soil sample ➡ uaex.uada.edu/soiltest

Want a fun way to spend your afternoon? Go outside and check out the nearest tree, and using our Landscape Tree ID, determine what kind of tree you're looking at! ➡ https://www.uaex.uada.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/tree-id/

IMPORTANT TREE PLANTING NOTES

Prepare the planting hole at least twice the diameter of the root ball and no deeper than the height of the root ball. When placed into the hole, the root ball should sit on solid, undisturbed soil.

Inspect the root ball for any “root-bound symptoms” and prune. Also, “open up by hand” any gnarled roots to aid root growth into the surrounding soil. The top of the root ball should sit level with, or slightly above, the surrounding soil. It is critical to not plant the tree too deep.

Thoroughly pulverize the soil from the hole and use this soil – without any additions – to backfill around the tree. Add soil around the tree until the hole is about half full, then firm the soil to eliminate air pockets, but do not pack it tight. Finish filling the hole, firm again and then water the tree thoroughly to settle it in. Generally, there is no need to fertilize a newly planted tree.

If the tree is tall enough to be unstable it should be staked, otherwise it’s not necessary. Leave the support in place for no longer than 9 to 12 months.

Keep the area two feet out from the trunk mulched and free from weeds and grass. Mulch should be about two inches deep and pulled back slightly from the base of the tree.

Water a newly planted or transplanted tree whenever the weather is dry. This is the single most important thing you can do to insure its survival. Proper irrigation the first 2-3 years should not be overlooked.